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  1. Experienced Noob

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    Quote Originally Posted by MusicMan View Post
    That's a great idea except that the tightening bracket on the receiver tube uses a "pin" connector (not a hex nut). When I've tried punching those pins out before, they get damaged (as well as the bracket) and it's difficult to up the pin back in (besides having to drill another hole exactly the right size though the shortened tube).
    I know what you mean about those pins. I replaced the tube that connects to a tom on a tom arm with a longer piece I made from taking apart a cymbal arm. I could not get the pin back in because the holes in the tom arm & cymbal tube didn't even line up. My solution: I just pushed the new tube as far into the tom arm as I could get it & called it good. I wrapped a piece of electrical tape around the tube where it met the mount so I could tell if it ever started to slip out but it never did. That was a tom arm with pressure being applied outward & downward from the 8" Reference tom attached to it. I think with a snare stand you'd be in even better shape leaving the pin out. All the pressure is downward. If the tubes fit as snugly in the snare stand base as they do in tom & cymbal arms, I think you'd be just fine in not putting the pin back in.

    It's not the greatest picture but you can kind of tell in the picture below that the arm on the tom mount for the 8" tom is longer than normal. That was what I was describing above.
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  2. J-Con

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    Quote Originally Posted by MusicMan View Post
    That's a great idea except that the tightening bracket on the receiver tube uses a "pin" connector (not a hex nut). When I've tried punching those pins out before, they get damaged (as well as the bracket) and it's difficult to up the pin back in (besides having to drill another hole exactly the right size though the shortened tube).
    I've had the same troubles. I wish Pearl would use the hex nuts on these parts as well as where the snare basket attaches to the tilter. I'd be nice to be able to swap the adjustable arm baskets with other series of stands...

  3. Registered User

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    Do you find the golden ratio air vents to be visually intrusive on your bass drum?

    Now I've noticed them on mine - big, gold, chunky and definitely not hidden away - I find it difficult to not see them whenever I glance at the drum. It's a very small thing but man, the older, smaller, silver, hidden away vents were so much more discreet!

  4. Registered User

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Foreman View Post
    I know what you mean about those pins. I replaced the tube that connects to a tom on a tom arm with a longer piece I made from taking apart a cymbal arm. I could not get the pin back in because the holes in the tom arm & cymbal tube didn't even line up. My solution: I just pushed the new tube as far into the tom arm as I could get it & called it good. I wrapped a piece of electrical tape around the tube where it met the mount so I could tell if it ever started to slip out but it never did. That was a tom arm with pressure being applied outward & downward from the 8" Reference tom attached to it. I think with a snare stand you'd be in even better shape leaving the pin out. All the pressure is downward. If the tubes fit as snugly in the snare stand base as they do in tom & cymbal arms, I think you'd be just fine in not putting the pin back in.

    It's not the greatest picture but you can kind of tell in the picture below that the arm on the tom mount for the 8" tom is longer than normal. That was what I was describing above.
    Yes, I can see it. That was a good idea too. I"m glad it worked for you. Maybe the downward pressure would be sufficient with a snare stand. The flat base stand it cheap, so I'll have to give that a try.
    Last edited by MusicMan; 05-27-2016 at 02:34 AM.
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  5. J-Con

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    Mike, your kit looks great in the sun light!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Foreman View Post
    I know what you mean about those pins. I replaced the tube that connects to a tom on a tom arm with a longer piece I made from taking apart a cymbal arm. I could not get the pin back in because the holes in the tom arm & cymbal tube didn't even line up. My solution: I just pushed the new tube as far into the tom arm as I could get it & called it good. I wrapped a piece of electrical tape around the tube where it met the mount so I could tell if it ever started to slip out but it never did. That was a tom arm with pressure being applied outward & downward from the 8" Reference tom attached to it. I think with a snare stand you'd be in even better shape leaving the pin out. All the pressure is downward. If the tubes fit as snugly in the snare stand base as they do in tom & cymbal arms, I think you'd be just fine in not putting the pin back in. It's not the greatest picture but you can kind of tell in the picture below that the arm on the tom mount for the 8" tom is longer than normal. That was what I was describing above.
    How did you remove the pins? I'm looking at modding some stands and have no clue how to remove them.

    Here's a picture of my "chopped" lightweight stands.
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  6. Registered User

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tasty808 View Post
    I've had the same troubles. I wish Pearl would use the hex nuts on these parts as well as where the snare basket attaches to the tilter. I'd be nice to be able to swap the adjustable arm baskets with other series of stands...
    Hi Tasty,

    I actually figured out yesterday that I could take 1 1/2" off the height of the Pearl flat base snare stand by just removing the bottom legs (with the drum tension screw, since the legs are reversible) and then cutting it from the bottom of the base tube (and removing the stop lock from the base tube while the legs are off).

    It's also necessary to cut the 1 1/2" off of the snare basket tube (that fits into the base tube) so that it doesn't pop out of the bottom of the shortened base tube. By taking only 1 1/2" off of the base tube, the legs will still fold up all the way too.

    No pins or hex bolts to worry about (since the legs of the flat base stands are reversible and are just held on to the base tube with the drum tension screw).
    2019 Masterworks / Matte Black

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  7. J-Con

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    Quote Originally Posted by MusicMan View Post
    Hi Tasty, I actually figured out yesterday that I could take 1 1/2" off the height of the Pearl flat base snare stand by just removing the bottom legs (with the drum tension screw, since the legs are reversible) and then cutting it from the bottom of the base tube (and removing the stop lock from the base tube while the legs are off). It's also necessary to cut the 1 1/2" off of the snare basket tube (that fits into the base tube) so that it doesn't pop out of the bottom of the shortened base tube. By taking only 1 1/2" off of the base tube, the legs will still fold up all the way too. No pins or hex bolts to worry about (since the legs of the flat base stands are reversible and are just held on to the base tube with the drum tension screw).
    That's exactly what I did in that picture posted above. Since I don't gig often (and I have two other full sets of hardware) I don't need the legs to be able to fold all the way. But, because they CAN be loosened at the bottom, I can still pack these up fairly quickly by disconnecting the bottom only.

    I'm trying to mod the height adjustment on the new Redline hi hat stand to have the same clamp as the older (but much cooler looking, IMHO) Advanced Hardware stands. The older clamp is pictured below.
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  8. Experienced Noob

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuffed Chimp View Post
    Do you find the golden ratio air vents to be visually intrusive on your bass drum?

    Now I've noticed them on mine - big, gold, chunky and definitely not hidden away - I find it difficult to not see them whenever I glance at the drum. It's a very small thing but man, the older, smaller, silver, hidden away vents were so much more discreet!
    I don't much mind the vents. I could see how others would, though, because they are very obvious. I agree with people's observations that they should come in 3 colors, to match the color of the hardware on the drum. That would make sense from an aesthetic stand point. Like I said, though, I don't really mind them. In fact, my issue is that I wish I'd have requested 4 of them so I'd have a couple on the bottom of the drum to run mic cables through.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tasty808 View Post
    Mike, your kit looks great in the sun light!!!



    How did you remove the pins? I'm looking at modding some stands and have no clue how to remove them.

    Here's a picture of my "chopped" lightweight stands.
    Thanks. It was amazing that the very moment I finished setting up the clouds came out & the halo flakes just totally de-activated. I'd have liked more halo flakes glowing, but oh well.

    As for the pins, I had a thin pick tool that I was able to stick in the pin & hammered on the pick until the pin was far enough out the other side to grab it with some pliers & twist/pull it the rest of the way out. It was easy, actually. Getting the original tube out, however, was a real problem. That thing was tight as a nun's... well, it was tight!

    Quote Originally Posted by MusicMan View Post
    Hi Tasty,

    I actually figured out yesterday that I could take 1 1/2" off the height of the Pearl flat base snare stand by just removing the bottom legs (with the drum tension screw, since the legs are reversible) and then cutting it from the bottom of the base tube (and removing the stop lock from the base tube while the legs are off).

    It's also necessary to cut the 1 1/2" off of the snare basket tube (that fits into the base tube) so that it doesn't pop out of the bottom of the shortened base tube. By taking only 1 1/2" off of the base tube, the legs will still fold up all the way too.

    No pins or hex bolts to worry about (since the legs of the flat base stands are reversible and are just held on to the base tube with the drum tension screw).
    Awesome! I knew you'd figure it out. Now you can get a Vinnie Paul snare (or 8" deep snare of your choice)!

  9. Registered User

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tasty808 View Post

    I'm trying to mod the height adjustment on the new Redline hi hat stand to have the same clamp as the older (but much cooler looking, IMHO) Advanced Hardware stands. The older clamp is pictured below.

    Tasty,

    I haven't tried doing that kind of mod to the hi-hat stand. However, I'm pretty sure that collar would be connected to the post with a "pin." It would be great if these were just hex screws to that the cap could be used to cover up the cut-down portion.
    2019 Masterworks / Matte Black

    18x20 KD, 14x16 FT, 12x14 FT, 8x10 TT, 5x13 SD

    2017 Masterworks Cocktail Kit / ES Comet Sparkle

    16x16 KD (verticle), 4x10 SD, 6x8 TT, 5x12 TT

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