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  1. Registered User

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    Playing should not be factored in here. We're talking about drum plies and shell composition in this thread I don't care if you teach at Juliard or can't play 4 quarter notes In a row. ( im not saying this be rude just demonstrating a point. With references like that I'm sure you have a lot of talent). But that's not what we're discussing. We're talking about your experience with gear and your knowledge of custom kits.
    Quote Originally Posted by AL PERCIVAL View Post
    in its most simplistic terms, snare's cannot be played "All the time". They need their sleep too!, thus the snare bed........... :D
    my sessions (work in progress)
    http://www.pearldrummersforum.com/sh...n-custom-maple

    looking for: anything satin

  2. Registered User

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearl bassist View Post
    Playing should not be factored in here. We're talking about drum plies and shell composition in this thread I don't care if you teach at Juliard or can't play 4 quarter notes In a row. ( im not saying this be rude just demonstrating a point. With references like that I'm sure you have a lot of talent). But that's not what we're discussing. We're talking about your experience with gear and your knowledge of custom kits.
    Fair enough. I took your initial comment the wrong way, I apologize. I have not had enough experience in purchasing high end instruments to call myself experienced in that respect, I agree completely. This is my first high end purchase. That is why I am kind of insecure about this, normally it is not in my nature to be insecure. All the other high end kits I have played were rentals, demos, borrowed from friends, or kits belonging to whatever studio I was recording at not to mention my school's DW Jazz kit. I thought you were questioning me as a musician which (hopefully understandably) had me a little frazzled.
    Teenager who hates his generation...
    Pearl drums/hardware*Vic-Firth sticks*Diril cymbals*Evans heads

  3. I'm actually sane

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    I don't think you can get the bubinga on the inside anyway. I was under the impression that it was only for the outer veneer. That could have changed though.
    SAManiac's kit is really freaking cool If I do say so myself...
    Quote Originally Posted by nik12 View Post
    Any posts that need to declare themselves as "full of win" are clearly devoid of win.

  4. Registered User

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maniac View Post
    I don't think you can get the bubinga on the inside anyway. I was under the impression that it was only for the outer veneer. That could have changed though.
    As I say I have seen them do it before. In my experience, they will do just about anything as long as they have the tools and capacity, both of which they have for this request.
    Teenager who hates his generation...
    Pearl drums/hardware*Vic-Firth sticks*Diril cymbals*Evans heads

  5. Pearl Masters Drummer

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drummer freak 16 View Post
    Hey, I am saving up for a custom drum set and I was wanting a second opinion on something. I am going to get mostly Maple shells, that is not up for debate. That having been said, I am wanting a little more attack than Maple alone could provide, so I am thinking of getting either Birch or Bubinga on the inside of my Maple shells. I am Currently leaning towards Bubinga on the inside, here's why:

    Bubinga is substantially harder than Birch, so simple physics says it will cut better than Birch.

    Bubinga not only has more cut than Birch, but it also has a really deep, rich low end that rivals Mahogany, making for a more dynamic sound than Birch.

    I am getting more of a fusion-sized kit than a Metal sized kit because I like the feel better and I just love the way fusion sizes make the drums pull, but in a Progressive Metal setting I will also need something that has some depth and Bubinga is known for making drums sound deeper than they are, so I can have the best of both worlds that way. (for reference I am getting 8x6, 10x7, 12x8, 14x11, 16x12 and 18x13 toms with two 20x18 bass drums and a 22x20 gong drum.) 6 ply rack toms, 8 ply floors and kicks/gong.

    Any thoughts?
    I don't think Pearl will make an 8x6 tom. You would have to stagger their lugs to do so or use a snare bridge type lug which would look goofy. You could however ask about 8x6.5, that might work with normal lugs and spacing.

  6. Registered User

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jutt8 View Post
    I don't think Pearl will make an 8x6 tom. You would have to stagger their lugs to do so or use a snare bridge type lug which would look goofy. You could however ask about 8x6.5, that might work with normal lugs and spacing.
    Really? Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I will probably ask for the 6.5 then. Close enough.
    Teenager who hates his generation...
    Pearl drums/hardware*Vic-Firth sticks*Diril cymbals*Evans heads

  7. Pearl Masters Drummer

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drummer freak 16 View Post
    Really? Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I will probably ask for the 6.5 then. Close enough.
    You're welcome, another member tried to do that and that is what he was told. You can double check with Tom when you are ready to order. I have an 8x7 and the lugs are super duper close do each other.

  8. Registered User

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jutt8 View Post
    You're welcome, another member tried to do that and that is what he was told. You can double check with Tom when you are ready to order. I have an 8x7 and the lugs are super duper close do each other.
    Thanks for preventing a dumb mistake! What kind of lugs do you have on yours?
    Teenager who hates his generation...
    Pearl drums/hardware*Vic-Firth sticks*Diril cymbals*Evans heads

  9. Pearl Masters Drummer

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drummer freak 16 View Post
    Thanks for preventing a dumb mistake! What kind of lugs do you have on yours?
    It's not a dumb mistake, you didn't know. I have Masters bridge lugs on mine. If you look in my signature at the Masters premium add-on link, you'll see how close they are on the 8x7.

  10. Registered User

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drummer freak 16
    Really? Interesting. My current kit is Poplar and no matter what heads and tuning it receives it sounds like junk. The Bubinga kits I have demoed sound phenomenal. Why are you the export drummer if you don't like poplar drums? hahaha Just a thought .
    Haha... My exports were the old mahogany birch ones. Now I have a vision anyways.
    For Trade: Pearl Vision VB Jet Black 12, 13, 16. PM if interested

  11. Registered User

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    Quote Originally Posted by Exportdrummer View Post
    Haha... My exports were the old mahogany birch ones. Now I have a vision anyways.
    That makes a little more sense hahaha.
    Teenager who hates his generation...
    Pearl drums/hardware*Vic-Firth sticks*Diril cymbals*Evans heads

  12. This is just a tribute

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drummer freak 16 View Post
    If you have been playing ten years, than it is worth pointing out I am more experienced than you at 14 years.Though I don't mean to insult you there, i'm just pointing it out for the sake of irony. You have a very solid point and I suppose I should have expected to be judged by my age. I guess I do have some of the catalogish feel in my post, but please understand i was simply trying to describe what I wanted in universally recognized terms. I honestly didn't expect anyone to make such a fuss over my terminology, I didn't think it was worth the time. As far as the experience=skill argument goes, I would like to point out Tony Royster Jr. Also, I sort of agree. I consider the 7.5 a medium thick shell when compared to other brands. Regardless of how its labeled I think its ideal for the sound I want. When I said I disliked thick shells, I was referring to the 8 ply beastly floor toms on the Reference. I need my shells to sound good and at least somewhat open on their own, because my tuning method relies on getting the shell to sing. PS, If you like a kit enough to make it no.1 for seven years no reason to replace it right? Don't fix it if it ain't broken! I'm hoping that this kit will be my main kit for years to come.
    To put this into context, I'm 42 years old and made my living playing trumpet for over a decade, right out of high school. While I have always had an interest in and fiddled with drums, I've only owned my own kit and gigged as a kit player for about the last 10, although prior to that I had an interest in ancient style (Fife and Drum) rudimental snare and learned how to do that in the early to mid 1990s - if you add the 8-9 years I spent as a rudimental snare drummer, then you don't have more experience as a drummer either. And experience is relative - how many gigs have you played and at what level were they? I was a premier military musician playing on the White House lawn for the President of the Unitited States, and since I was gigging pretty much daily, even if you've played drums a couple of years longer than me, (which I'm not sure you have) you most assuredly don't have more experience. Especially not if you are still a teenager - if you are teenager, then I was making a living as a professional musician before you were born.

    Does that help to put things into a bit different perspective?

    Now, if you are a prodigy like Tony Royster Jr. you may have an argument. Are you? If so, I doubt if you'd be asking these kinds of questions on this forum - if you were a prodigy, you'd be experienced enough that you should already know, right?
    Patrick G.

    "95% of the average 'weekend warrior's' problems could be solved by an additional 30 minutes of insightful practice." -- Anonymous

    "Let's be honest... drummers don't have piles of money laying around, just piles of drums." -- Gord the Drummer

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