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  1. This is just a tribute

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drummer freak 16 View Post
    What makes you think I'm inexperienced?
    Your signature, "Teenager who hates his generation..." suggests that you are inexperienced - if you are in fact a teenager, your level of experience is limited by time. It doesn't mean that you don't know anything, but compared to a guy who has been drumming and gigging for a couple of decades you'll be found somewhat wanting.

    Back to the subject though, someone mentioned thicker drums as being a good way to get more attack and punch, to which you immediately replied that you dislike thick shells, then went on to talk about Pearl's 6 ply, 7.5 mm shell. Color me stupid, but I thought that was a thick shell.

    Overall though I tend to agree with PYRRHO - it sounds like you've read a lot of catalogs and sales literature, although to be fair, kits that have bubinga in them seem to be pretty dark tonally, and birch kits don't seem to have the roundness that a thicker shelled maple kit seems to have. But, having said that, a fair amount of that can be colored and achieved with head selection and tuning to a degree. Heck, I don't know - I've been playing close to 10 years, and I've had the same maple Pearl thick shelled kit for going on 7 of them, so my firsthand experience with kits I've owned is pretty limited.

    The bottom line is that as long a the quality is there, maple, birch, bubinga, mahogany...even poplar -all of them can and do sound great when they are set up right.
    Patrick G.

    "95% of the average 'weekend warrior's' problems could be solved by an additional 30 minutes of insightful practice." -- Anonymous

    "Let's be honest... drummers don't have piles of money laying around, just piles of drums." -- Gord the Drummer

  2. Hot **** Tamale!

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    Aside from your shell configuration of birch/bubinga and...

    Do research on shell sizes. To me it does make sense to ask for low end if the shells you want are such that you listed.
    K3ith R

    Pearl MCX/280 - 8x7,10x8,12x9, 13x9, 14x14,16x16,18x22
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  3. Chomp, Chomp

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drummer freak 16 View Post
    hahaha I have been saving up for the better half of my life and I still don't have all the cash I need. Right now, it's a pipe dream, but at least I know what I want at this stage so I have a solid goal to aim for and time to change it should I find something more preferable. People have offered me financial help on this kit, but I refused it. I really want to feel that I earned this kit for myself, not just got it. If I'm spending this much on anything, it better mean something to me you know?

    There's nothing wrong with setting a goal and working towards it, and spending your money on quality musical instruments is admirable for a young man. Best of luck to you sir.

  4. Registered User

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    Quote Originally Posted by quicksticks View Post
    There's nothing wrong with setting a goal and working towards it, and spending your money on quality musical instruments is admirable for a young man. Best of luck to you sir.
    thank you very much! I hope to have it by graduation as I am going to be a music major, so that would be very helpful.
    Last edited by Drummer freak 16; 08-14-2012 at 05:20 PM.
    Teenager who hates his generation...
    Pearl drums/hardware*Vic-Firth sticks*Diril cymbals*Evans heads

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    Quote Originally Posted by K3ith R View Post
    Aside from your shell configuration of birch/bubinga and...

    Do research on shell sizes. To me it does make sense to ask for low end if the shells you want are such that you listed.
    I thought the same. I like the feel of fusion sizes better than something like power toms, but I would still like to retain that aggressive edge that lower toms give. I thought Bubinga would be a good compromise, but judging by some responses I can't be right no matter what.
    Last edited by Drummer freak 16; 08-14-2012 at 05:16 PM.
    Teenager who hates his generation...
    Pearl drums/hardware*Vic-Firth sticks*Diril cymbals*Evans heads

  6. Registered User

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    Quote Originally Posted by trickg View Post
    Your signature, "Teenager who hates his generation..." suggests that you are inexperienced - if you are in fact a teenager, your level of experience is limited by time. It doesn't mean that you don't know anything, but compared to a guy who has been drumming and gigging for a couple of decades you'll be found somewhat wanting.

    Back to the subject though, someone mentioned thicker drums as being a good way to get more attack and punch, to which you immediately replied that you dislike thick shells, then went on to talk about Pearl's 6 ply, 7.5 mm shell. Color me stupid, but I thought that was a thick shell.

    Overall though I tend to agree with PYRRHO - it sounds like you've read a lot of catalogs and sales literature, although to be fair, kits that have bubinga in them seem to be pretty dark tonally, and birch kits don't seem to have the roundness that a thicker shelled maple kit seems to have. But, having said that, a fair amount of that can be colored and achieved with head selection and tuning to a degree. Heck, I don't know - I've been playing close to 10 years, and I've had the same maple Pearl thick shelled kit for going on 7 of them, so my firsthand experience with kits I've owned is pretty limited.

    The bottom line is that as long a the quality is there, maple, birch, bubinga, mahogany...even poplar -all of them can and do sound great when they are set up right.
    If you have been playing ten years, than it is worth pointing out I am more experienced than you at 14 years.Though I don't mean to insult you there, i'm just pointing it out for the sake of irony. You have a very solid point and I suppose I should have expected to be judged by my age. I guess I do have some of the catalogish feel in my post, but please understand i was simply trying to describe what I wanted in universally recognized terms. I honestly didn't expect anyone to make such a fuss over my terminology, I didn't think it was worth the time. As far as the experience=skill argument goes, I would like to point out Tony Royster Jr. Also, I sort of agree. I consider the 7.5 a medium thick shell when compared to other brands. Regardless of how its labeled I think its ideal for the sound I want. When I said I disliked thick shells, I was referring to the 8 ply beastly floor toms on the Reference. I need my shells to sound good and at least somewhat open on their own, because my tuning method relies on getting the shell to sing. PS, If you like a kit enough to make it no.1 for seven years no reason to replace it right? Don't fix it if it ain't broken! I'm hoping that this kit will be my main kit for years to come.
    Last edited by Drummer freak 16; 08-14-2012 at 05:19 PM.
    Teenager who hates his generation...
    Pearl drums/hardware*Vic-Firth sticks*Diril cymbals*Evans heads

  7. Banned

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drummer freak 16 View Post
    You win, it is a useless question I know. I'm just curious about second opinions. I have heard Maple/Bubinga and Birch/Maple drums before and I think I like the Maple/Bubinga better because they also have more low end than Maple, not just more attack, making for a more dynamic drum in my opinion, though the only Bubinga kit I have had the chance to record with was an all Bubinga kit, so I don't have a testament to offer there.
    I was just going off of the priority in your first post. Attack seemed more important and the idea of Bubinga's low end was a pleasant afterthought.

    In the end, it sounds like you have a plan. If there is even a chance of Pearl plying Bubinga on the inside, I'm sure there is quite a premium on that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nik12 View Post
    I was just going off of the priority in your first post. Attack seemed more important and the idea of Bubinga's low end was a pleasant afterthought.

    In the end, it sounds like you have a plan. If there is even a chance of Pearl plying Bubinga on the inside, I'm sure there is quite a premium on that.
    Fair enough. But truth be told, its the sharp attack, but also the transient tone and deep lows that make Bubinga the better choice in my mind. Birch can deliver in the attack department, but it isn't as deep and dynamic. That is why I feel Bubinga is a better mate with Maple tonally speaking. The concept is Bubinga will provide articulation, and deeper lows while Maple will bring some warmer mids and lows to the table. I also am getting fusion sizes rather than power toms or similar, so I figured a way of artificially regaining at least some of the low end couldn't hurt. All of that with the 45 degree bearing edges used on the Masters series for the toms and the Full rounded bearing edges on my bass drums should really be something special. (at least to me!)
    Last edited by Drummer freak 16; 08-14-2012 at 08:14 PM.
    Teenager who hates his generation...
    Pearl drums/hardware*Vic-Firth sticks*Diril cymbals*Evans heads

  9. Registered User

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    I have been playing for about 13 years and I consider myself extremely inexperienced amongst most of the drummers here like trick and pyro. Don't get me wrong I know my stuff and can hold my own amongst 99% of drummers in the music scene in my area. However when it comes to wood types, thickness, ply composition, they have age on us and they do know better.
    Quote Originally Posted by AL PERCIVAL View Post
    in its most simplistic terms, snare's cannot be played "All the time". They need their sleep too!, thus the snare bed........... :D
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  10. Registered User

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    Birch has my vote. Can't stand bubinga. It sounds extremely similar to poplar in my opinion. Very cheap sounding
    For Trade: Pearl Vision VB Jet Black 12, 13, 16. PM if interested

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    Quote Originally Posted by Exportdrummer View Post
    Birch has my vote. Can't stand bubinga. It sounds extremely similar to poplar in my opinion. Very cheap sounding
    Really? Interesting. My current kit is Poplar and no matter what heads and tuning it receives it sounds like junk. The Bubinga kits I have demoed sound phenomenal. Why are you the export drummer if you don't like poplar drums? hahaha Just a thought .
    Teenager who hates his generation...
    Pearl drums/hardware*Vic-Firth sticks*Diril cymbals*Evans heads

  12. Registered User

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearl bassist View Post
    I have been playing for about 13 years and I consider myself extremely inexperienced amongst most of the drummers here like trick and pyro. Don't get me wrong I know my stuff and can hold my own amongst 99% of drummers in the music scene in my area. However when it comes to wood types, thickness, ply composition, they have age on us and they do know better.
    from a gear standpoint you are right, but I'm referring strictly to playing on this one. I have not been knowledgeable about high end drums for long enough to have seen great gear come and go, and most of my knowledge of older gear is second hand. I've only been a gear connoisseur for about four of those fourteen years under my belt. But I did not get a silver medal in music at the academic decathlon national competition, make a nationally touring percussion ensemble, get a perfect five on the AP music theory test and Audition for Berklee, Frost, Eastman, Juliard and Thornton to be called an inexperienced musician. Forgive me if I seem angry, but you have to admit that if you were me, you would be slightly annoyed too. I'm not bitter or anything, don't take this the wrong way, its just that you kind of put a damper on my day with that comment. Especially since I have worked since the age of two to be where I am today.
    Last edited by Drummer freak 16; 08-14-2012 at 09:40 PM.
    Teenager who hates his generation...
    Pearl drums/hardware*Vic-Firth sticks*Diril cymbals*Evans heads

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