Pearl Drummers Forum - Powered by vBulletin

Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 12345
Results 49 to 52 of 52
  1. Registered User

    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Castle Mordor
    Posts
    748

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mully
    Ah, I see. I must say, though, I love the thin shells on my cheap Sonor Delites. Are Sonor one of those "lower quality makers" of which you speak?



    Stephen
    Yes, you can be perfectly happy with a set of cheap thin shelled drums as long as you've paid lots for them and everybody knows they're expensive. This way, you'll suffer no peer pressure because everyone will be fooled. And those old 10-ply Sonors (you know, the ones they used to advertise that you could stand on the shell and it won't break?) were incredible drums. Too bad they went downhill.

  2. Assist in the Escape

    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    814

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ZenErik
    Compare a thicker shell and thinner shell with the same specifications side by side and in the same relative tuning. The thicker shell will have a longer sustaining and clearer initial tone. To me, the low end projects more too. The thinner shells have a nice initial attack but it fades into wobbly overtones a bit more quickly and is maybe a little less clear. Maybe a little less low end but still can easily have a nice round tone.
    I've found the thinner shells tend to be warmer and the fundamental is more predominant. The thicker shells tend to be brighter and the overtones are more prominent.

    With the thicker shelled drums, the drum sound takes on more character of the heads than the shell. Vice versa with thinner shell drums, which seem to be easily choked or dampened by heavily muffled heads.

    But as I said, my experience is the rigidity of the drum matters more than the thickness. Two wonderful drums I've played that were very sensitive yet had rigid shells were the Sonor Delites and the Tama Starclassics. It really depends on having the right heads and tuning for the shells to maximize their tone.

  3. Registered User

    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 44Ronin View Post
    I'm talking about PITCH....not thickness.

    Taking a shell and slapping it is a complete waste of time. It's a nonsnse gimmick perpetuated by DW and John Good. This is the same guy who rejected die cast hoops and then backflipped when creating a jazz series to copy Gretsch. Go figure.

    The reason you get a higher fundamental on the keller shell is the fact that they are possibly using a harder denser wood and glue.

    Maple- 46lb/ft cubed = longer sustain, higher fundamental
    Birch- 39lb/ft cubed = shorter sustain, lower fundamental

    Thicker shell = higher fundamental, more projection & volume, less resonance.

    Theres multiple factors working here, shell thickness and wood hardness and glue density.

    Point in case quit obsessing over numbers and perception. There are multiple factors you will not be able to account for, and these will vary from shell to shell since wood is a natural product and varies in density and weight etc.

    The way you test a drum's tonal qualitys is through putting it in a playing situation. The drum sound is not the drum shell vibrating., so tapping the shell is fairly useless unless you play clave on your floortom, but no, even then when the hardware hoops and head goes on the pitch changes.
    Resurrecting an old thread but this is the first Iíve ever heard of birch having a lower pitch/tuning lower than maple?!

  4. Dalmi Joedi - Jedi

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Jersey Shore & BKLYN
    Posts
    18,533

    Default

    A lot of names that I had a lot of good conversations with who disappeared into the black hole called the Internet.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •