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Early 80's Pearl USA Maple Rewrap

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  • Early 80's Pearl USA Maple Rewrap

    Hello,
    I'm new to the Pearl forum, but have played for many, many years. The only other Pearl kit that I've owned was a mid-80's Export that I bought new, in a red mahogany or something lacquer finish. Then I got into vintage Slingerland's, Gretsch's, & Ludwig's.
    Anyway, I'm not too familiar with Pearl of any era, but had always wanted a set like Topper Headon from the Clash played. So I started looking for an older fiberglass kit that was in need of work. His set was chrome wrapped. Not a fan of the finish itself, I was looking at using silver sparkle. A couple of years ago I found titanium sparkle on sale at Precision Drum, so I went ahead and bought some sheets, figuring I would save it for my future Pearl fiberglass kit.
    Unfortunately, I was never able to find one that was in bad enough shape for me to rewrap. I couldn't bring myself to tear into a perfectly acceptable drum.
    A few weeks ago, I was searching the web again, when an add came up for a Pearl USA Maple set in gloss black popped up on the local Music Go Round. I knew Pearl had it's US headquarters in Nashville, but had no clue they actually made drums there. A quick google search brought me to this site, and some good information about the drums.
    Not to go into the whole history, but these are Keller shells manufactured to Pearl's specs. For the price, I figured I go ahead and take a look at them. I went to the store, and negotiated the price ($250), and came home with a 9X13, 10X14, 16X16, & 16X24 set of USA Maples.
    I'll load some pictures later, but the black wrap is / was cracked all over. But the shells and bearing edges are in great shape! Luckily, whoever owned these never took off the bottom heads and threw them around. Some of the chrome is pitted, but no real rust to speak of, and the original Pearl 2.3 mm Super Hoops are still with the set.
    I'm toying with the idea of filling the tom arm holes and putting new Optimounts on the 13 & 14, but still undecided. Same with the bass, filling the tom mount holes. Or, I could leave the holes and just cover them? I've done repairs like this on vintage drums, so it doesn't scare me, but those were to fill incorrect holes. In this case, I would be changing the drums from original so I'm still undecided.
    Drum porn to come.....
    Thanks,
    Steve

  • #2
    Bass with the original gloss black. You can see how bad of shape the coating is in this pic. The rest were similar.

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    Close up of the badge on the bass.

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    The toms unwrapped. There is some staining on the floor tom, probably sat in a damp basement at some point.

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    Some of the lugs and the floor tom Super Hoop cleaned with Barkeeper's Friend.

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    Thanks,
    Steve
    Last edited by sksmith2500; 11-26-2017, 09:17 AM.

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    • #3
      And a close-up of the titanium sparkle wrap that I'll be using.



      Thanks,
      Steve
      Attached Files
      Last edited by sksmith2500; 11-26-2017, 09:53 AM.

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      • #4
        If you want to plug holes use wood dowels/wood glue and sand them to curvature of shell before installing wrap.... if you don't want to plug holes and have the option of putting original mounts on again someday then just wrap over holes, as long as the wrap you're using isn't that cheap paper thin crap ... when cheap crap wrap is applied over shell without holes plugged you'll see impressions of holes in wrap

        That titanium sparkle wrap is gonna look killer on those shells .. I see shells have water stains on them .. if you want them gone and have shell look brand new just use any "wood bleach" .. one or 2 applications should do the trick
        Originally posted by sksmith2500 View Post
        I'm toying with the idea of filling the tom arm holes and putting new Optimounts on the 13 & 14, but still undecided. Same with the bass, filling the tom mount holes. Or, I could leave the holes and just cover them? I've done repairs like this on vintage drums, so it doesn't scare me, but those were to fill incorrect holes. In this case, I would be changing the drums from original so I'm still undecided.

        Comment


        • #5
          I really like that wrap. Be sure to post photos of the finished product.

          Comment


          • #6
            Hello all.
            The floor tom is finished. I'm going to remove the badge and reattach with some small screws as soon as I can located some that will work.
            I need to flatten it out better also. I'll get that taken care of when I get the screws.

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            I'm plugging the holes in the toms. I also order some Optimounts for them, and will plug the holes on the bass also, when I get around to it.
            More to come over the next few days.
            Thanks,
            Steve

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            • #7
              Those are gonna be sweet. Keep us posted!

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              • #9
                Does anyone know where I can get small black screws to replace the little tacks for the badges?
                Or, does anyone what size I should look for?
                I've tried Lowe's & Ace Hardware, nothing I can find is small enough.
                Thanks,
                Steve

                Comment


                • #10
                  You need what are called micro screws / miniature screws / hobby screws ... if you can't find in any store then ebay has sh#tloads for the taking
                  Originally posted by sksmith2500 View Post
                  Does anyone know where I can get small black screws to replace the little tacks for the badges?
                  Or, does anyone what size I should look for?

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    You could yard sale/ thrift shop/ flea market a jewelry box and use the hinge screws.

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Thanks for the ideas, guys. I found some small tacks on Ebay this morning. They were cheap enough, so I ordered 2 sizes to see if any match. They should arrive in a few days.
                      Here are a couple pics of the 9X13 I finished this morning. The tom mount holes have been filled and a new Optimount added. I'll recover the 10X14 later today. My resonant head is on back order, so I had to order one from Amazon. It won't be here until sometime next week.
                      Going to start removing the bass hardware now.
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                      • #13
                        Looks good man ... those small tack nails used in badges can be removed and reused if you use needle nose pliers to pull them out first before removing actual badge ... I do it on all my 80's Pearls .. by the way you're gonna have a hard time getting an Optimount to fit on that 14x10 - 6 lugger .. they aren't made for 6 lug 14's
                        Originally posted by sksmith2500 View Post
                        Thanks for the ideas, guys. I found some small tacks on Ebay this morning. They were cheap enough, so I ordered 2 sizes to see if any match. They should arrive in a few days.
                        Here are a couple pics of the 9X13 I finished this morning. The tom mount holes have been filled and a new Optimount added. I'll recover the 10X14 later today. My resonant head is on back order, so I had to order one from Amazon. It won't be here until sometime next week.
                        Going to start removing the bass hardware now.
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                        • #14
                          Originally posted by BadAstronaut View Post
                          by the way you're gonna have a hard time getting an Optimount to fit on that 14x10 - 6 lugger .. they aren't made for 6 lug 14's
                          True be that.
                          There are 2 methods to "fix" that, and both will void any warranty.

                          Some people have had the arms extended, allowing the grommet(s) to reach further. That involves metal work, welding and repainting.

                          The simplest (and most often used) solution is to stand on it, which spreads the arms to make it wider, and consequently fit, Some people figured they needed to dremmel the inside corners after doing this to prevent shell/wrap rub.

                          These methods were done more often than not to make opti's fit Export shells...
                          My revamped Pearl DX kit (now with 8" tom)
                          My refurbished 72 NC Deluxe Pearl Kit
                          My early 80's G314LXDC Pearl Snare
                          Catalogue Corner Thread
                          Restoring and refinishing (vintage) drums
                          My Snare build

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            Originally posted by BadAstronaut View Post
                            by the way you're gonna have a hard time getting an Optimount to fit on that 14x10 - 6 lugger .. they aren't made for 6 lug 14's
                            My 14X10 is an 8-lugger. I just check with the rim and a couple of tension rods, and I'll have no problem with the Optimount.
                            Thanks for the heads up though, that would've sucked
                            On the tacks, I unfortunately had a couple fly into the fluffy rug my wife bought. I won't find them again until the day I step on one barefoot (which will happen!).
                            Steve

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