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  • #31
    how do you remove a badge with a grommet thing,, (the hole thing in the drum) and get it back on later?
    anyone want a mapex pro m ice blue finish
    24x18
    18x16
    16x16
    14x14
    13x9

    $$550
    pm if u want

    Comment


    • #32
      Most grommets can be carefully pried/lifted up and in with, say a thin bladed screwdriver on the inner ply to release them (same with many vent hole jobbies).
      Depending on the brand, I believe you can get replacement grommets and inserters off e-bay.
      My revamped Pearl DX kit (now with 8" tom)
      My refurbished 72 NC Deluxe Pearl Kit
      My early 80's G314LXDC Pearl Snare
      Catalogue Corner Thread
      Restoring and refinishing (vintage) drums
      My Snare build

      Comment


      • #33
        well thats going to be hard because its a leedy ludwig badge and the only one online is 50 $, i also have an old ludwig keystone bade and a gretch round badge, all which i need to put back on. is there any like surefire way?
        anyone want a mapex pro m ice blue finish
        24x18
        18x16
        16x16
        14x14
        13x9

        $$550
        pm if u want

        Comment


        • #34
          also i figured id add this, any old drum that has paint on the interior or exterior, most likly contain lead, so wear a mask. i relized this halfway through sanding, hope i dont get cancer haha.
          anyone want a mapex pro m ice blue finish
          24x18
          18x16
          16x16
          14x14
          13x9

          $$550
          pm if u want

          Comment


          • #35
            refinishing

            I've worked in bodshops for almost 20 years painting, and last year decided to refinish one of my drums as a test first. I have an old Tama Granstar black lacquer kit with lots of scars and blemishes from years of gigging.I bought an additional tom for it a few years ago off ebay that was lipstick red, and which is the one I decided to start with.

            I removed all the hardware,I filled any deep imperfections and used a primer surfacer over it and sanded smooth with 400,then 600 grit.I wet sanded the whole drum down smooth with 800 grit,plugged any lug holes with tape, and fine lined taped the bearing edge then used tinfoil to block each end of the drum where the heads would be and taped that to the fine line tape.

            Wax and grease remove the surface, then using a tack rag lightly over the drum.

            I then sprayed a coat of black sealer over the drum first for adhesion (and so not to have any issues between the lacquer and the urethane I will be using). Then sprayed 3 coats of black base coat on and lightly sanding in between coats with 1000 grit and tack cloth. Then 3 coats of clear(thin coats).
            When dry i wet sand with 1000,1200,1500,and finally 2000. Then machine compound, polish, and wax. You have to be very careful around the lug holes with the sand paper and buffer as it can burn through easily in these spots. Now reassemble hardware.

            Turned out great! Problem is now I am thinking about doing something wild for the whole kit like flames, some pearl,or tribal design or who knows I cant decide!
            Hope this helps!

            Comment


            • #37
              i have a question, how can you stain a kit, after putting in wood filler?
              anyone want a mapex pro m ice blue finish
              24x18
              18x16
              16x16
              14x14
              13x9

              $$550
              pm if u want

              Comment


              • #38
                Originally posted by metaldrummer438 View Post
                i have a question, how can you stain a kit, after putting in wood filler?
                Good question.
                In this situation you're not trying to stain the wood, you end up staining the lacquer.
                The simple answer is that you have to add stain to your lacquer. You can buy products premixed here in Australia that are exactly that, stain mixed with lacquer.

                If you're doing it yourself it sounds simple, but in reality is more difficult.
                I highly recommend choosing your stain colour, and your clear coat.
                Get a small, measured amount of clear in a jar. Add say 10 drops of stain to it. Apply it to scrap timber and let dry. If satisfactory work out your volumes to reproduce this colour stain/lacquer combo consistently.
                If it's not dark enough yet, add more drops of stain to your test pot, keep going until you have what you want...

                Reproduce that.
                Put on 2 or 3 coats of your stain/lacquer mix. Finish with a couple of coats of straight clear...

                I did say earlier however that I don't recommend trying to do stain coats on woodfilled drums.
                The reason I said that earlier was because it is almost impossible to match wood and woodfiller to start with.
                And there is a distinct possibility that the stain/lacquer combo will "take up" differently on the wood and the wood filler, ie it may be darker (or lighter) on the woodfilled sections compared to the wood...
                I personally think wood filled shells should be wrapped or painted. I guess your other option is to add a veneer of wood after you have woodfilled, and you have a nice "clean" ply that you can stain outright then clear coat.
                Last edited by 3pearlkits; 02-20-2010, 02:49 PM.
                My revamped Pearl DX kit (now with 8" tom)
                My refurbished 72 NC Deluxe Pearl Kit
                My early 80's G314LXDC Pearl Snare
                Catalogue Corner Thread
                Restoring and refinishing (vintage) drums
                My Snare build

                Comment


                • #39
                  Question about polishing and re-chroming

                  I have a black 1985 Premier APK Royale.

                  What exactly is the wrap/cover finish made of? --- I saw the suggestion for
                  using NOVUS on the first page, but I don't know if this product is ideal for
                  polishing this wrap/cover material. Is it Mylar or PVC, or what?

                  Also, I have a bottle of Blue Magic "Plastic & Plexiglass Cleaner and Light
                  Scratch Remover." I know this to work well on motorcycle fairings.

                  Might these 2 products be made up of similar ingredients, I wonder?

                  Won't both products perform the same on light scratches?

                  There are a few scratches that may require the NOVUS heavy scratch
                  remover, so I am debating what to do. I'm not clear on this.

                  Also, I believe it would be safe to use my (new) car buffer machine, using
                  a cotton buffer of course, right? I mean, if I am careful to avoid building
                  (spinning wheel) heat by using a low setting or softly pulling the trigger,
                  this would definitely save me time and elbow grease, right? Or is the risk
                  of "burning" the finish too great, since I have never done it before?

                  * * *

                  Secondly, I am contemplating simply replacing my original stands with Pearl
                  stands for my Premier.

                  I am contemplating this because my wallet is intimidated by what it would
                  take to re-chrome them. haha

                  I don't even know how to remove, or even replace, the rivet-hinges- that is,
                  to completely disassemble the stands for re-chroming preparation.

                  Let me assert that the hi-hat could prove THE most challenging piece of
                  hardware to bring back to life.

                  Plus, one of my cymbal stands has apparently become slightly elliptical from
                  over-tightening, making it difficult (almost impossible) to fully collapse it,
                  even with a heavy spray of WD-40 lubricant.

                  How could I re-round/true this tubing, I wonder?

                  And how would I remove and re-attach the rubber feet??

                  --Anyway, my main question here is that it is indeed cheaper to simply
                  replace these old TriStar stands with new Pearl stands than to re-chrome
                  them, right?

                  I mean, I know this drumset is certainly NOT a collector's item. It just has
                  lots of sentimental value.
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by Rob The Heart-Throb; 02-20-2010, 04:58 PM.
                  OLD: 1985 Premeir APK Royale, Black. Tri-Star stands.
                  11x12, 12x13, 16x16, 18x22, 6.5x14 chrome.

                  NEW: 2007 Pearl Vision VLX, Ruby Fade. DR-503C, H-2000, S-2000, and 5xCH-2000S, 1xCH2000, DW 5000 dbl, DW 9100AL throne, round.
                  8x10, 9x12, 11x14TT, 16x16FT, 18x24, Chad Smith.

                  sigpic

                  Comment


                  • #40
                    would painting a vintage drum ruin its value?
                    anyone want a mapex pro m ice blue finish
                    24x18
                    18x16
                    16x16
                    14x14
                    13x9

                    $$550
                    pm if u want

                    Comment


                    • #41
                      Originally posted by metaldrummer438 View Post
                      would painting a vintage drum ruin its value?
                      Yes. So would refinishing, rewrapping, taking off wrap and going to stain/natural and clearcoating. Anything other than a good cleaning.
                      This is all arguable. Some collectors want pristine vintage items in immaculate original condition. Some kits may be worth a fortune, but not in their present state, so, say, new wrap is in order. But that isn't the sellers decision, it is the collectors.

                      I did say earlier this thread is about having done your research, and, fully informed, have decided to go ahead and refinish. This is something you usually do for yourself, and you keep the result.
                      My revamped Pearl DX kit (now with 8" tom)
                      My refurbished 72 NC Deluxe Pearl Kit
                      My early 80's G314LXDC Pearl Snare
                      Catalogue Corner Thread
                      Restoring and refinishing (vintage) drums
                      My Snare build

                      Comment


                      • #42
                        Originally posted by Rob The Heart-Throb View Post
                        I have a black 1985 Premier APK Royale.

                        What exactly is the wrap/cover finish made of? --- I saw the suggestion for using NOVUS on the first page, but I don't know if this product is ideal for
                        polishing this wrap/cover material. Is it Mylar or PVC, or what?

                        Also, I have a bottle of Blue Magic "Plastic & Plexiglass Cleaner and Light Scratch Remover." I know this to work well on motorcycle fairings.

                        Might these 2 products be made up of similar ingredients, I wonder?

                        Won't both products perform the same on light scratches?

                        There are a few scratches that may require the NOVUS heavy scratch remover, so I am debating what to do. I'm not clear on this.

                        Also, I believe it would be safe to use my (new) car buffer machine, using a cotton buffer of course, right? I mean, if I am careful to avoid building
                        (spinning wheel) heat by using a low setting or softly pulling the trigger, this would definitely save me time and elbow grease, right? Or is the risk
                        of "burning" the finish too great, since I have never done it before?

                        * * *

                        Secondly, I am contemplating simply replacing my original stands with Pearl stands for my Premier.

                        I am contemplating this because my wallet is intimidated by what it would take to re-chrome them. haha

                        I don't even know how to remove, or even replace, the rivet-hinges- that is, to completely disassemble the stands for re-chroming preparation.

                        Let me assert that the hi-hat could prove THE most challenging piece of hardware to bring back to life.

                        Plus, one of my cymbal stands has apparently become slightly elliptical from over-tightening, making it difficult (almost impossible) to fully collapse it,
                        even with a heavy spray of WD-40 lubricant.

                        How could I re-round/true this tubing, I wonder?

                        And how would I remove and re-attach the rubber feet??

                        --Anyway, my main question here is that it is indeed cheaper to simply replace these old TriStar stands with new Pearl stands than to re-chrome
                        them, right?

                        I mean, I know this drumset is certainly NOT a collector's item. It just has lots of sentimental value.
                        Mylar is what your heads are made from. Wraps generally are "plastic" ( I don't know exactly what type, but imagine them to be PVC) so while I don't know your particular product, if it's a plastic polish, there's no reason it won't work well, with your (car) buffing pad. Just watch heat buildup and static buildup.
                        It would certainly be worthwhile to try first up.

                        Have you actually got a quote to re-chrome you hardware? It may be cheaper than new hardware and still keeps your drums and hardware in keeping with when they were made.
                        Top notch hardware is not cheap new either...
                        Rubber feet usually pull off with a good hefty tug, and a good hefty push put's them back on.
                        Bent tubes: errr soft jaws on a vice?????

                        I should mention that not undoing stands, wing nuts etc properly, when taking hardware down, is much more likely to scratch chrome than nearly anything else!

                        Is the main problem with your chrome scratching or rust?

                        It doesn't look too bad in your pic!
                        My revamped Pearl DX kit (now with 8" tom)
                        My refurbished 72 NC Deluxe Pearl Kit
                        My early 80's G314LXDC Pearl Snare
                        Catalogue Corner Thread
                        Restoring and refinishing (vintage) drums
                        My Snare build

                        Comment


                        • #43
                          Originally posted by Rob The Heart-Throb View Post
                          I have a black 1985 Premier APK Royale.

                          What exactly is the wrap/cover finish made of? --- I saw the suggestion for
                          using NOVUS on the first page, but I don't know if this product is ideal for
                          polishing this wrap/cover material. Is it Mylar or PVC, or what?

                          Also, I have a bottle of Blue Magic "Plastic & Plexiglass Cleaner and Light
                          Scratch Remover." I know this to work well on motorcycle fairings.

                          Might these 2 products be made up of similar ingredients, I wonder?

                          Won't both products perform the same on light scratches?

                          There are a few scratches that may require the NOVUS heavy scratch
                          remover, so I am debating what to do. I'm not clear on this.

                          Also, I believe it would be safe to use my (new) car buffer machine, using
                          a cotton buffer of course, right? I mean, if I am careful to avoid building
                          (spinning wheel) heat by using a low setting or softly pulling the trigger,
                          this would definitely save me time and elbow grease, right? Or is the risk
                          of "burning" the finish too great, since I have never done it before?

                          * * *

                          Secondly, I am contemplating simply replacing my original stands with Pearl
                          stands for my Premier.

                          I am contemplating this because my wallet is intimidated by what it would
                          take to re-chrome them. haha

                          I don't even know how to remove, or even replace, the rivet-hinges- that is,
                          to completely disassemble the stands for re-chroming preparation.

                          Let me assert that the hi-hat could prove THE most challenging piece of
                          hardware to bring back to life.

                          Plus, one of my cymbal stands has apparently become slightly elliptical from
                          over-tightening, making it difficult (almost impossible) to fully collapse it,
                          even with a heavy spray of WD-40 lubricant.

                          How could I re-round/true this tubing, I wonder?

                          And how would I remove and re-attach the rubber feet??

                          --Anyway, my main question here is that it is indeed cheaper to simply
                          replace these old TriStar stands with new Pearl stands than to re-chrome
                          them, right?

                          I mean, I know this drumset is certainly NOT a collector's item. It just has
                          lots of sentimental value.
                          idk if this will help, butyou can go over it in steel woolfor a hile, and get chrome spray paint, and some gloss, itll probably chip tho
                          anyone want a mapex pro m ice blue finish
                          24x18
                          18x16
                          16x16
                          14x14
                          13x9

                          $$550
                          pm if u want

                          Comment


                          • #44
                            Broken snare........

                            I'm new to this forum and hoping someone will be able to help me. I recently bought a 1975 Tama Royalstar kit to add to my collection. This kit sounds great but the throw off/strainer for the snare has broken and needs replacing. I've looked all over the net to find this part to no avail and was directed to this forum. Does anyone know where to find a replacement snare throw off or knows of any other make or model that would fit.

                            Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!

                            Comment


                            • #45
                              Originally posted by metaldrummer438 View Post
                              idk if this will help, butyou can go over it in steel woolfor a hile, and get chrome spray paint, and some gloss, itll probably chip tho
                              I would not so this ^, but that's just me.

                              The incorrect grade of steel wool will only make the situation worse, the spray paint and clear will jam up the stand from working.
                              My revamped Pearl DX kit (now with 8" tom)
                              My refurbished 72 NC Deluxe Pearl Kit
                              My early 80's G314LXDC Pearl Snare
                              Catalogue Corner Thread
                              Restoring and refinishing (vintage) drums
                              My Snare build

                              Comment

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