And at no point anywhere in this thread did I say Gibraltar was the cheaper option. In fact, I think it was you that said they were cheaper...
And why is ironic of me to say "don't know how to use a rack correctly"? It's plainly obvious that people who experience slipping on a round rack don't know how to use a rack correctly - so how else would you like me to put it? Likewise, those that say the bars dent and bend when you crank the clamps down (I believe that was you that said that), obviously don't know how to use a rack clamp correctly. Yes, you CAN dent the rack bars on a Gibraltar rack if you INCORRECTLY overtighten the clamps so much that it causes the bar to get damaged. And you would need to excessively overtighten the clamps to achieve this - you're talking about a steel bar and an aluminium clamp; you do the math.
The only things on my rack, other than the pipe to pipe clamps, that need memory locks on them are my toms, and heavy cymbals (ie, my ride, and my remote hi hats). Nothing else on my rack needs a memory lock to stop it slipping. I do have memory locks on most clamps on my rack, because I like their ability to serve the purpose they were named after; memory locks. So the fact they also lock out any chance of slippage is a bonus to me.
The Icon racks are great, and I've never said otherwise. But for many people, myself included, it's not the best option. What I want from a rack, as do many many thousands of other people, Gibraltar, or other brand of similar designed rack, is a better choice for them. And as Naigewron says - if Gibraltar, and round racks in general (as sold by many different companies) were so inherently flawed and engineered so poorly, why are they the market leader in drum racks?
I'm unsure why you seem to think whose rack is best is such a pissing contest? You have an Icon and you like it - that's great, I'm really pleased for you. But as I said, for other people other products are better suited to their needs. It's very closed minded, and extremely ill-educated, of you to spread mis-information about a product just because you think another is better. It's also very childish. I could go on about how the Icon rack is limited in it's clamp position, or about how it's limited/flawed when it comes to same level horizontal bars, or how you can't move the legs in or out on the horizontal bars, or how you can't reposition the feet in or out. But there's no need to - it's not a contest as to which company makes the best rack. It's about what rack is best suited for the individuals needs. And for that you need to be more openminded and aware of what products are on the market and what they can do for you. What options they provide, the negatives and the positives. And spreading false information is very immature...
I'm glad you enjoyed the video, but you honestly think it pointed out that the design and engineering of Gibraltar racks is flawed and poor, because it needed two hinged memory locks to support the weight of a 200lb man? Really? You do make me chuckle sometimes. That's what you took from that video. You didn't take from it that the supposedly so poorly engineered system of pipe and clamp Gibraltar employ, is able to take the weight of a 200lb man, with two memory locks? You surprise me. Oh no wait, no you don't. I forgot your argument isn't actually about fact, but more about hiding fact in preference of mis-information to make your choice seem better...
Matt, i hate to say this. But you do sound like a brand whore. Yes pearl make great stuff that is probably superior, but its like you've shut yourself off from everything else, and are aggressively attacking it.
Because it would weaken your argument to explain that the only way the Gibraltar rack will work better is if you buy additional parts. Just as it's a tad misleading to call those clamps memory locks, as their main function is to stop the main system from failing. They should be called "clamp supports" or something corporate like that. In reality, who would remove those clamps from the pipe while gigging - no one - so "memory lock" is not the main purpose of the clamp.
And yes, people do remove the clamps from the rack when gigging. I have myself. It's far easier, for transport and packing into a hardware case, to remove the clamp with the Tom holder or cymbal holder attached. Which is where the memory lock part comes into play - that clamp goes back on in the same position and angle every time.
But yes, many drummers with non Pearl kits use Pearl racks. And many drummers with pearl kits use non pearl racks. And many drummers with non pearl kits use non pearl racks. So what was your point there?
I use the pearl icon curved for gigging and a diy stealth gibraltar-dixon rack for the studio. No slipping for either racks. Proper use and nobody should have problems.... top products both!
Beneath a summer sky
Under glass moonlight
Night awaits the lamb's arrival
Liquid shadows crawl
Silver teardrops fall
The bride subsides to her survival
Ref Crystal Rain Army!!!
Some things to consider... my "mini" rack isn't easier to transport that stands. Even just using half the rack, it's heavier and bulkier than stands. It's a bit more awkward to pack in my hardware bag as well. However, it's worth it to me because I can position everything exactly where I like it, and I can do so consistently and much easier than I could with stands.
I recently cut the rack even more, so it's now like this (I cut the post now, so the snare basket isn't just clamped off the side anymore. This allows everything to fit in my small hardware bag, is very easy/quick to set up, and it gets everything right where I want it. Still weighs a bit more than stands, but it's a fair compromise.
If I were to do it all again, I'd probably just go with gibraltar because the curved bars would be easier to modify. Plus, I think gibraltar stuff is a bit lighter than the Icon. Not sure about that though. Not saying I don't like the Icon--I love it--but it is a bit of a hassle to work with.
Edit: this isn't a very good picture... maybe I'll get some better shots later.
I like that wing you have there. What rubber end is that? What that installed from the factory - it looks round??
The Icon square pipes are much more difficult to modify than the round pipes. On a Gibraltar pipe, it takes less than a minute to cut with their nice pipe-cutter. Adjusting the length of the square pipes is more like a workshop project... you need some tools to do it right any make the end result look like the factory. Your cuts look good to me... did you use a hack saw or a ban saw?
The rubber piece is just one of the covers that go on the round posts. It fit inside the square bar nice and snug, so why not... ideally I'd want something square to actually cover the whole edge, but this works for now.
I didn't have access to proper tools, so that's why it was more of a hassle to me. I cut everything using a hacksaw and a homemade miter box (at first, I tried using a cheap store-bought miter box but it was a pos and just caused more problems). I got everything cut clean and straight, but not perfect. For example, the pipe clamp on the end of the square bar (you can't see it in the picture) doesn't line up perfect with the edge of the bar. Not an issue really, just minor cosmetics. Plus, I wasn't able to get the screws back in. They're not really necessary on the curved bars I think, but yea. Stuff like that keeps it from looking "factory made," like you said. But it's not noticeable unless you bend down and really look at it, so I'm happy.
Hmm, interesting. I may just go with 2 Stealth Racks. They look sturdy, and I'd personally buy a memory lock for each clamp so that I could just pull off the boom with the clamp still on. I may even rig a way to mount my hi-hat stand, but I'm just thinking out loud. Should I go with the Pearl 1000 cymbal holders or something like a Tama Roadpro? I really dig the Wing Locks and I definitely want some on my next hardware upgrade.
I just customized my curved Icon (once again). it wasn't that hard, I just had to cheat a little: I cut each horizontal bar around a bar end clamp, to remove those easily, then beveled the inside part of the clamps to put them back without a pneumatic press. I also used a little oil. took me under two minutes to reassemble each clamp.