Can someone please explain the pros and cons of taping sticks to the fulcrum point compared to taping all the way down the stick?
Can someone please explain the pros and cons of taping sticks to the fulcrum point compared to taping all the way down the stick?
As far as I know, the only thing that changes is the look of it and the weight. With more tape the stick will be heavier but it will also look nicer because there isn't any wood in the space between your hand and the end of the tape.
Little late to the party but I'll share my 2 cents.
Top to Bottom
Pros - Uniformity, arbitrary stick choice, weight, durability
Cons - Grip is compromised.
Top to Fulcrum
Pros - Grip, Heavier at the tip, durability
Cons - Nothing that I can think of.
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Rebel pretty much covered it. I've used both styles, tip to fulcrum in high school, then full tape after that. I prefer full tape because I like the feel. I naturally choose front heavy sticks when I buy them, so since I have the weight, there's no need to change my style of taping. The only think I change is how the tape is layered.
If you want the best of both worlds, tape from the butt to the fulcrum with very little overlap; then tape from the fulcrum to the tip with increasing overlap. The extra overlap puts more tape on the stick, which means a more front heavy feel. If you don't like the feel, maybe it's too heavy, you can unwind from the tip down to the point you want to change and re-wrap with slightly less overlap than before. Then just cut off the excess tape and you're golden.
The other popular method of taping that gives you the best of both is to tape from the tip down to the fulcrum, then leave a gap for you hand, and tape from there to the butt of the stick. See any Phantom line with Rennick as the caption head and you'll see what I mean.
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I'll add a few other details to these points based on my experiance. Depending on where you march, your typical weather and type of tape used will come into play. If you play somewhere that is hot/wet on a regular basis, or if you hands sweat quite a bit when you play, you may prefer having the areas where you grip the stick "sans-tape" at suggested above.
One of the original reasons butt end taping came into play was to keep the stick as close to the original balance point as possible. Also most lines will just use electrical tape. Some types of tape are great, but others really become a mess when they get warm and you have adhesive seeping out at every tape edge. Also if you are using a wood grip area, a little sun screen worked into the stick (assuming they have a natural finish) actually makes them a bit tacky when you are back out in the sun. It seems counter intuitive, but it works. (DON'T do this if you tape the entire stick.)
Your choice of tape method may also depend on your budget - ie who is paying for your sticks. If you are lucky to be in a line that gets comp'd sticks and mallets, then you can likely just tape the sticks for visual reasons with minimal overlap. However, if a new pair of sticks is going to come out of your pocket, I recommend two complete layers of tape, expecially in the areas where the stick will contact the rim for both shots and pings/keks. When the tape starts to break down, replace it, even if it is just a small area of the stick. You'll find yourself retaping sticks in this manner several times a day if you're rehearsing long hours like drum corps or college bands.
In general, I try to get my lines to use a little tape as possible, especially with younger players. They are already trying to overcome the mass of a large stick with less developed finger and arm muscles. No reason to make it even hard for them by adding another 10-15% weight to the stick.
If you like the idea of taping the whole stick, one last tip is tape the top layer from the beat to the butt. If the stick starts to slip from your hand, each layer of tape acts like a tiny ridge and gives you that little extra chance the stick will stay in your hands when doing a vis or something else a little more demanding from a grip stand point.
Ryan J
Reference (Natural Maple) 2009-Pres 8x7 10x8 12x9 13x10 14x14 16x16 22x18
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If you want a good grip, I use hockey stick tape. It is made to be tacky when wet, so it is great when your hands get sweaty. For a drum line I'd put in on the grip area then use shiny tape everywhere else.
It's extremely cheap. I wrapped about 20 sticks for $5 or $6 bucks in the grip area.
I prefer the "Missing Hand" or 2/3 tape... playing in Vegas, and all over the country, in the summer can really bring out the worst in adhesive.
StickTape.com used to suck, but their newest formula is quite amazing and works well. A little expensive, but my lines use it.
Wow, I didn't even know that little company still existed. It looks like they just sell through Lone Star now as their really is no content at their website. We were once an endorsing line 7 or 8 years ago and I still have a couple rolls in my tape drawer comprised of odd colors that we never used. They no longer give me free stuff, but I would still recommend their product. It was good quality and does hold up better than just electical tape off the shelf at Lowes, Home Depot, or whatever farm and barn store you have in your town.
Ryan J
Reference (Natural Maple) 2009-Pres 8x7 10x8 12x9 13x10 14x14 16x16 22x18
Export (Jet Black) 1988-2009 8 10 12 13 16 22
Pioneer 93,94,95 Back-2-Back DCI Champs
Chops Inc 06 DCA Championship High Percussion
Racine Kilties 03,04,05,08,10,11 DCA Finalist