Editorializing the new Reference Series

[Prof.Sound]

I was recently asked to start a thread Editorializing the new Reference Series from Pearl. Specifically to comment on its design, merit thereof, etc. Not that everyone was waiting with bated breath to hear my comments, but I thought, why not? I can share an opinion! So here goes.

Lets review what Pearl has to say first for those that didn't ake the time:


In 1999, Pearl began its most ambitious undertaking, The Masterworks Series, the world’s first truly custom drums. Designed for the player by the player. Every aspect of the manufacturing process was custom made, from the number of wood plies, the wood selection, to the final finish. Over the last 5 years, through arduous listening tests, Masterworks has taught us a great deal about drums and what makes the perfect shell. So forget what you think you know about drums and take a close look at Reference Series, the most acoustically advanced drums in the world. To fully understand the Reference Series you must understand that the desired tonal characteristics of a 10" tom are completely different than that of a 22" bass drum. Thus to use the same material in both drums would result in a compromise.

Reference Series drums use a combination of task specific bearing edges and 3 time proven woods, Birch, Maple, and African Mahogany. Using Maple as a sole material has long been the traditional choice for shells and for good reason. Maple provides smooth, well balanced tone that is perfect for a 12" tom. Subsequently, all Reference Series 12" toms are composed of 6 plies of Maple. The only single wood shell in the series. Our 10" and 8" toms receive 4 plies of Maple with 2 inner plies of Birch for cut and attack. And for maximum response, all 13" and smaller toms have a rounded 45° bearing edge.

Beginning with our 13" tom and larger, Mahogany is added to the inner plies to increase the lower frequencies and accentuate the warmth of the Maple. The 14" toms and larger begin using our fully rounded bearing edge for even more shell contact. Our 18" and 20" bass drums use 4 inner plies of Mahogany with 2 outer plies of Maple. As the size of the bass drums increase, so does the amount of Mahogany. Our 22" and 24" bass drums incorporate an amazing 6 inner plies of Mahogany surrounded by 2 outer plies of Maple for the ultimate in solid responsive bass frequencies.

With Reference Series, it’s not about compromise, it’s about every drum in your kit performing at its optimal capacity.

First the good news – most of what Pearl has stated, in my opinion and experience, holds true.

The short version of the bad news is, for those that do not believe the concept of combining woods is a natural sanctioned event, you will be presently surprised to learn, you can still learn things.

In times far past, bearing edges were not always real sharp, they were much like that Pearl is using for the bass drums, only slightly more pointed, but not really very even in the sense of sitting flat against a flat surface. They also varied in the way they were shaped. This provided a much more muted tone with a sometimes very narrow tuning range where the drum truely resonated, but was almost always "focused" sounding. Couple that with shells that were not always real round and the drum never really sang out for a bright cutting sound.

All maple shelled drums for a period of time were actually thought to be very bright because with them the bearing edges were often very sharp. As all birch drums emerged, suddenly maple seemed warm whereas older drums from the likes of Rodgers seems to remain a muted darker sound.

As we know now, one draw back to the so-called sharp bearing edge is that bright overtones can become a very predominant sound. This brightness can be desired in small diameter drums where you want a definitive “pop” out of the drum, but a sound that many struggle to eliminate on larger drum diameters. If you really like that bright edged sound emitted from floor toms, dare I say the referance Series may not be to your liking?

Pearl did not invent these concepts, nor dare I say “reinvent” them. A small company called Boom Theory (http://www.boomtheory.com/page4.html) has since 1997 used these various sculptured techniques on a bearing edge to shape the tone to that thought to be most desirable when micing drums. Dare I say other custom snare builders have as well, plus some.

However, unlike Pearl's matching of the woods to gain the best combination of wood resonant properties, Boom Theory remained focused on using thin wall Maple drums with a reinforcement hood because thin walled units can sometimes choke out under very high tunings when left as shells w/o reinforcement hoops.

So when you look at all aspects of the Reference Series, the outcome is to be expected and as represented. Personally, the only drums in the series I’d take exception to would be the snare drums and small toms. The snares because of the use of 20 plies. While the trend today is cutting edge in your face snare sounds, there are many who actually want a mellower snare sound, this would not be the choice IMO (but I'm a brass snare guy anyway). For the high toms through size 12", it would be nice to see an all birch option there as well. But that’s picking away at a just emerging line of well thought out drums that I think will be extremely well received.

Another good advancement from an otherwise very highly rated company in my book, Pearl.

[rsdrumz]

Dare I say thanks for the review? ;)

[russb66]

Great review,but I have to disagree with the request for an all birch smaller tom.I currently play a Pearl MRX[6 ply maple.] I added an 8" BRX tom[6 ply birch] as an add on off Ebay. The difference between the 8" birch tom and 10" maple tom was very pronounced.They just did NOT "flow" or "blend" well IMO. That was my experience.

[drummer111]

thanks prof sound

[Prof.Sound]

Great review,but I have to disagree with the request for an all birch smaller tom.I currently play a Pearl MRX[6 ply maple.] I added an 8" BRX tom[6 ply birch] as an add on off Ebay. The difference between the 8" birch tom and 10" maple tom was very pronounced.They just did NOT "flow" or "blend" well IMO. That was my experience.

Don't get me wrong, I think there is also room for the toms including but smaller than 12" to be all maple as well, which I assume based upon your comment would be your preferance. But you'll note that Pearl has made the decision to ONLY offer the 8" and 10" drums as a mixture of both Maple and Birch, whereas I think they should be including the 12" drum (maybe as an option) with equal wood construction. It would be "my" preferance to have all the toms in that range available as all birch drums, NOT just the very samll ones.

But lets not forget (as of now anyway) there is still the Masterworks series to allow the creation of drums to your liking for wood combinations. The issue is whether or not Pearl will allow the same modification of the bearing edges (or to a persons preferance) that could be equal to those they have created on the Referance Series?

[Just_Dan]

cheers for the review man. can you tell me if and when we can start to design and buy the Reference Series drums. im probably not gonna be able to afford them but i would like to know thats all. i enjoyed reading your review man thanks for the info.
peace out
AD_69

[DED]

Nice work. . .my take on the Reference Series is this:

For those of us that subscribe to the blended wood concept, these drums represent a nice option, provided you are seeking the sound that these drums are designed to produce. I think that, while the choice of woods and bearing edges have probably been determined based on the 'average' combinations most Masterworks users have chosen over the years, they still might be a little too narrowly focused for a lot of drummers.

What if I want a little more 'snap' out of my larger toms or I want the smaller ones to speak a little less bright? Well, obviously I would have to opt for a Masters kit or buy the Reference drums that appeal to me and then add custom built Masterworks to match and fill out the kit. The long way around the block seems to me. . .may as well just go all Masterworks.

The blended shell idea is a little lost on me, I'm sure the Reference drums sound good, but so do the BRX and MHX (and EXR) kits I own. Do the Reference sound good because of all the shell manipulation or because Pearl just knows how to make consistantly good sounding drums? Beats me? (pun intended)

Since I only use two, or at most three, toms, I don't think I'd benefit much from a few plies of mahogany in my floor toms. (The things sound fat enough, thank you!) I think I like all my drums to have the same sonic qualities. . .I can tweak them with head selection, tuning and (god-forbid) muffling.

I am glad to see some attention paid to the bearing edges though. Years ago I bought a used BLX (very bright sounding drums) and I had the top edges redone in a softer, round-over profile. The bottom edges were the usual sharp, cheese-cutter type. Those drums went from good sounding to great sounding. . .warmer, fatter, more controlled and less brittle sounding. I wonder if Pearl has experimented with different edges on the same drum? (Silly me, of course they have.)

Kudos to Pearl for continuing to seek out new ideas. I may not be sold on the Reference series yet (and I'm sure I don't like the lugs) but I also realize that I've been wrong before and I wish them success.

Now I wonder if we'll see a Reference Series tour like the Masterworks tour Gene and Raymond did a few years ago?

[Holybanana]

Great review!

[Demfer]

Im am too very torn on this idea. I own a 7 peice mmx kit. It sounds amazing i bring it to every gig. In my opinion the best drums i have played/owned. Now i am seriously looking into the reference as a next kit. What you guys are saying really makes sence to me. Will the different woods make the kit sound good to me? This is somthing that if i do buy, i will never play before i get it. This kind of investment to somthing i have never touched/heared in person kind of makes me nervous. The bearing edges are another thing im worried about, the old vintage sound is really not what im looking for. I want nice deep projecting toms and with the edges making so much contact with the heads will most likley be more bright then what i am expecting. So i dont know? I am prolly just going to wait it out and see what my options are. I really wana sit behing a reference kit and really give it the good "once over" before i go blow $2600 on somthing i have never listened/played.

[Prof.Sound]

The bearing edges are another thing im worried about, the old vintage sound is really not what im looking for. I want nice deep projecting toms and with the edges making so much contact with the heads will most likley be more bright then what i am expecting. So i dont know?

Forgive me if I have assumed something from your comment that's untrue, but you have this mixed up a bit.

The bering edges on the Referance series are designed to bring out the deep warmer mid and low end tone of the drums as the toms get larger in diameter. They are not designed to bring out the bright overtones. This is only true of the snare drum and its construction.

On the bass drum, the edges are designed to focus the sound while enhancing the deep timbre of the drums. Recognizing that the desire is to have ever deeper tones as the drum diameter gets larger, they have added plies of Mahogany to enhance this part of the tone as well. So I seriously doubt you would walk away from that kit thinking it is in any way "brighter" than the kits you currently own, or for that matter, have owned.

[Demfer]

Forgive me if I have assumed something from your comment that's untrue, but you have this mixed up a bit.

The bering edges on the Referance series are designed to bring out the deep warmer mid and low end tone of the drums as the toms get larger in diameter. They are not designed to bring out the bright overtones. This is only true of the snare drum and its construction.

On the bass drum, the edges are designed to focus the sound while enhancing the deep timbre of the drums. Recognizing that the desire is to have ever deeper tones as the drum diameter gets larger, they have added plies of Mahogany to enhance this part of the tone as well. So I seriously doubt you would walk away from that kit thinking it is in any way "brighter" than the kits you currently own, or for that matter, have owned.

Yep you are right, forgive my mistake. I was refering to comments above and looking over what i wrote got mixed up. As you pointed out with the adding of mahogany to increase the deep sound. When i spoke about the brightness i was more refering to the projection of the drums. I myself have not played any of the kits. So i cannot say for shure what they will sound like. This drum shell makup is all too new and will take some time for people to really understand. I myself just wana sit behind a kit and really give it a test drive to see what it can really do. The whole "vintage" they are trying to carry out really seems like a good idea, but without hearing it for myself and having some compressed video to go by i really dont know. The only thing i do know for shure, is that bass drum will sound amazing no matter what. That thing must be a cannon.

[drumgame47]

Prof. Sound or anyone...what do you think of this combination? Would it flow well? I think I just kindof rolls down the spectrum to myself but.......don't really know for sure.

8x8 6ply Birch (45' bearing edges)
10x10 4ply Birch Outer, 2ply Maple Inner (45' bearing edges)
12x11 2ply Birch Outer, 4ply Maple Inner (45' bearing edges)
14x13 4ply Birch Outer, 2ply Mahogany Inner (45' bearing edges)
16x16 4ply Birch Outer, 2ply Mahogany Inner ( not so rounded bearing edges)
18x18 4ply Birch Outer, 4ply Mahogany Inner (rounded bearing edges)
(2) 22x20 6ply Birch Outer, 4ply Mahogany Inner (rounded bearing edges)

I think it might work.

[Dibs]

10/10 review.

[czx]

I bet the Reference bass drums don't get received too well, because most of the idiots in Guitar Centers will AUTOMATICALLY cut a freakin hole in the front head, when they are meant NOT to have a hole. Look how Pearl shows each and every kit.

Thicker shelled bass drums are hard to get their magic cooking with a hole in the front head. However, without the hole, they stomp on anything including the popular thin shell with rings IMO.

Thinner shelled kicks will sound decent with the hole cut so most people like them right away.

[nils]

Dare I say thanks for the review? ;)
.

Thank you very much Prof. Sound for this review. I'd appreciate more threads like this on the forum.

I wonder how great the improvement, if one considers the sound as improved, might be in comparison to the masters. Is this new design especially good for mic'd situations or will the drums sound even better in acoustic situations?

In a way the new series reminds me of my early 80's BLX drums. The bearing edges are a bit rounded from the top to the outside (by design not by use). As I use 2003 BRX toms from 8-12", the kit is partly similar regarding the bearing edges.

[Prof.Sound]

Is this new design especially good for mic'd situations or will the drums sound even better in acoustic situations?

I would suggest its design would be especially good in miced situations. But also remember that a real good sounding acoustic kit with mics, should also be a good sound w/o mics. So I would think it would be a great sounding kit un-miced for stuff like Light Jazz/Jazz whereas the sound may not be what is desired for Metal and heavier styles of play. We'll just have to wait and see how its received?

[Hook]

Prof. Sound, DED, thanks for your editorials on Reference your contributions are greatly appreciated.

It is important to have well balanced, hype free commentary on these drums...brass tacks and so on. I hope to have more reviews coming in as more people get their hands on these drums and explore the tonal characteristics of what we have built.

Many thanks!

Sincerely,
Hook

[nastynorski]

Thank You Prof./ for the review of the new Pearl Line of Reference drums.
I also took a side trip to your drum tuning lesson. It is a pleasure to read some inteligent instruction for tuning...I believe I have discoverd why my floor tom sounds like a card board box. Is their any way to temporaily compensate for less than true bearing edges. Mine are not bad however my forum set came from a pawn shop and it had seen some pretty rough handling.
At one time, I had enough cash saved up to get an export kit......Then I thought if I get some more overtime at work and save alittle more, I'm going for a Sessions kit. Well I'm just about their and "low and behold" along comes the Reference Kit. Oh Well, more overtime and a couple more months and I get a new kit.........I wonder if we will get to see any more color options.. :eek:

[Prof.Sound]

Thank You Prof./ for the review of the new Pearl Line of Reference drums.
I also took a side trip to your drum tuning lesson. It is a pleasure to read some inteligent instruction for tuning...I believe I have discoverd why my floor tom sounds like a card board box. Is their any way to temporaily compensate for less than true bearing edges. Mine are not bad however my forum set came from a pawn shop and it had seen some pretty rough handling.
At one time, I had enough cash saved up to get an export kit......Then I thought if I get some more overtime at work and save alittle more, I'm going for a Sessions kit. Well I'm just about their and "low and behold" along comes the Reference Kit. Oh Well, more overtime and a couple more months and I get a new kit.........I wonder if we will get to see any more color options.. :eek:

As you see by the Referance Series, shape of the edge can effect tone. Despite that, I've always found that almost every drum will have some place in its tuning range where it can some pretty darn good. So outside of the obvious (retooling the edges) I'd suggest you just go throught the steps, with each head removed and find the note that sounds best and work the tuning of the other drums off that one.

I would also suggest you have the best chance of the drum sounding good single ply coated heads when bearing edges are bad.

[Prof.Sound]

Prof. Sound or anyone...what do you think of this combination? Would it flow well? I think I just kindof rolls down the spectrum to myself but.......don't really know for sure.

8x8 6ply Birch (45' bearing edges)
10x10 4ply Birch Outer, 2ply Maple Inner (45' bearing edges)
12x11 2ply Birch Outer, 4ply Maple Inner (45' bearing edges)
14x13 4ply Birch Outer, 2ply Mahogany Inner (45' bearing edges)
16x16 4ply Birch Outer, 2ply Mahogany Inner ( not so rounded bearing edges)
18x18 4ply Birch Outer, 4ply Mahogany Inner (rounded bearing edges)
(2) 22x20 6ply Birch Outer, 4ply Mahogany Inner (rounded bearing edges)

I think it might work.

Sorry I missed this post earlier.

Here's what stands out to me:

First, I rarely if ever like drums that are squared dimensions. The reason for this is the "Standing Wave" principle I wrote about that can occur within the drum. If you are willing to have a drum that really resonantes at one very specific note, then these may the ticket?

I tend to still like the time tested sizes. So instead of a 11x12 I'd opt for a 8x12 or 9x12 because I like the more controlled articulate sound from rack toms. I have not found a good drum in that size range that cannot sound very resonant. I do not know if you have played much under mics, especially close micing techniques. But the resonance is enhanced with close micing, or certainly can be. So again, deeper drums can get muddy sounding under mics. Just something to consider.

Having played a 18" floor tom for some 20 years, again, the 18" depth is not something I'd do, I'd opt for a 16" depth. So with the "possible" exception of your bass drum, I'd drop 1 to 2 inches from all the depths. If it were me, I'd still consider the 18" depth on the kick. If you want a deeper note, there's no substitute for a 24" drum. And this you could do and have ergonomics still work out by using shallower toms.

Looking at your wood picks, I'm guessing you like a bright edge to the sound, and probably want loud drums and don't want a muddy warnth to them? If that's the case, and you use mics, then consider my comments about depth. Otherwise, I think you'll get what I described.

[wood]

I went ahead and ordered a 20x16 12x9 14x14 14x6.5 reference kit in purple craze.2500 @ mass music.I know I have not played them yet but I know from my own experiance with pearl drums they will kik butt.I won't get the kik, rack, and floor,till may and snare in june.

[eryan]

great post as always prof sound.

[drumgame47]

Prof. Sound, thanks for looking at the post...um, I've taken in consideration about using a bit more shallower toms. Although, I've played on some shallow toms a buddy of mine had (Mapex). They were extremely shallow, but the only thing I didn't like were the toms below 12"...not sure what they were. But anyhow, here are my reconsiderations to the size spectrum. Im kindof shooting for the 14" to be half way between a rack tom and a floor tom...thus my reasoning for large sizes. Is there any better way to do this? One last question, did I hear from somewhere that using 6plys of birch in 8" diameter drums tends to choke out?
8x7 (6ply Birch)
10x8 (4ply Birch/ 2ply Maple)
12x10 (2ply Birch/ 4ply Maple)
14x11 (4ply Birch/ 2ply Mahogany)
16x15 (4ply Birch/ 2ply Mahogany)
18x16 (4ply Birch/ 4ply Mahogany)
(2) 22x20 (4ply Birch/ 4ply Mahogany)

[Pearldrummer10]

i am really skeptical..........................and yet very anxious to hear these reference kits because my computer wont play the movie or anything, i just dont know about how good combining wood will actually sound.....

[Rocker6000]

Prof. Sound, thanks for looking at the post...um, I've taken in consideration about using a bit more shallower toms. Although, I've played on some shallow toms a buddy of mine had (Mapex). They were extremely shallow, but the only thing I didn't like were the toms below 12"...not sure what they were. But anyhow, here are my reconsiderations to the size spectrum. Im kindof shooting for the 14" to be half way between a rack tom and a floor tom...thus my reasoning for large sizes. Is there any better way to do this? One last question, did I hear from somewhere that using 6plys of birch in 8" diameter drums tends to choke out?
8x7 (6ply Birch)
10x8 (4ply Birch/ 2ply Maple)
12x10 (2ply Birch/ 4ply Maple)
14x11 (4ply Birch/ 2ply Mahogany)
16x15 (4ply Birch/ 2ply Mahogany)
18x16 (4ply Birch/ 4ply Mahogany)
(2) 22x20 (4ply Birch/ 4ply Mahogany)

Don't you think that birch and african mahogany will sound kind of strange together? I mean, you've got bright, cutting attack, and then deep, booming low-end. I think they wouldn't quite complement each other. Just my opinion.

[Prof.Sound]

Prof. Sound, thanks for looking at the post...um, I've taken in consideration about using a bit more shallower toms. Although, I've played on some shallow toms a buddy of mine had (Mapex). They were extremely shallow, but the only thing I didn't like were the toms below 12"...not sure what they were. But anyhow, here are my reconsiderations to the size spectrum. Im kindof shooting for the 14" to be half way between a rack tom and a floor tom...thus my reasoning for large sizes. Is there any better way to do this? One last question, did I hear from somewhere that using 6plys of birch in 8" diameter drums tends to choke out?
8x7 (6ply Birch)
10x8 (4ply Birch/ 2ply Maple)
12x10 (2ply Birch/ 4ply Maple)
14x11 (4ply Birch/ 2ply Mahogany)
16x15 (4ply Birch/ 2ply Mahogany)
18x16 (4ply Birch/ 4ply Mahogany)
(2) 22x20 (4ply Birch/ 4ply Mahogany)

I'd suggest a 16x14 for the one floor and either a 12x9.

Birch will choke out if using thin shells which do not have the reinforcement hoops, and then only under higher tunings. None of your shells are thin.

Keep in mind, you are experimenting because you don't really know what these will sound like. This may not be a good idea without actually calling Pearl and getting their opinion. As the ads for the Referance Series says, they have done tons of shells to compare the end result.

[lavo]

I love the idea of the reference series and how they worked out different bearing edges. I still plan on a Masterworks though. I seem to be in the minority, but I don't want my 8 & 10 toms super bright. I play MMX and I use the 8&10 as my primary toms. I want them to sound more warm and tom like, not pingy and bright like an effects or timbale sound. From the sound clips I've heard, when Heracio Hernandez played the 8 & 10 where just to bright. 4ply may not flow with 6ply's which I would prefer in the larger toms, so I plan on adding 2ply's mahogany in the 8&10. I have about a year to figure it out, my local drum store will be getting a reference kit for me to check out. None

[kc drums]

I think Pearl has done a great job coming up with this new series drum. I wish I had known these were coming out before I bought my master series. I really think I would have went after these,still might. I really like the way the different woods,and bearing edges are thought out in these. The first thing I thought of was the experts figured out a good combination for most drummers to have a great sounding kit. I'd be willing to bet there are quite a few masterworks owners that aren't happy with the sound of their drums because of the choices of woods they picked on their own. I've played for forty years,and would be afraid to design my own masterworks. Yet I would feel comfortable buying these. I don't know if Pearl had this thought in mind when this series was developed,if they did it was right on target with me. I have no doubt these will sound outstanding with great tonal differences. Anyone else feel the same?

[Prof.Sound]

Yes I would agree with you and said the following in another thread on the issue of whether this line was a mistake or not by Pearl.


The way Pearl has done it, it seems to me it allows them to bring a unique and different product to market at a price point that would otherwise be much higher. Plus, all you need to do is read many of the MWKS posts to know that essentially, even though the options exists to mix woods, many people are just guessing at what they want. They have no real ability to do the "hear testing" that Pearl has done to define a kit like the Reference Series.

Lets face it, there are a great many combination possibilitites with the Masterworks series - this simplifies the experience greatly.

[Drumkat]

Hi Prof.Sound.
I'm going to order a MW and was wondering what you thought about this config.
10x8 (2 birch inner 2 maple 2 artisan outer)
12x8.5 (2 birch inner 2 maple 2 artisan outer)
14x11.5 (2 birch inner 2 mahogany 2 artisan outer)
22x18 (4 birch inner 4 mahogany 2 artisan outer)
Thanks for your knowledge!
Drumkat

[IgiDrum]

As far as I know pearl does not make 12*8.5 and 14*11.5 you will have to make up your mind. If you have 10*8 go with 12*9 and 14*12 or 14*14 because you are gonna use it as "floor tom". I would not mix so many different kinds of wood you might mees it up. What you use as inner ply that is how drum will sound in your case it is birch. In my opinion mahogany wont do a lot to the sound. I guess you are trying even it up lows and higs between birch and mahogany. But I think it wont work but that is me.

[Earthdrum]

Hey Prof, I just wanted to let you know you tuning bible and the amount of thought you put into your posts in this forum is greatly appreciated. Your advice really has helped me, and im sure many other drummers on this forum.

Thanks again, ED

[Prof.Sound]

Hi Prof.Sound.
I'm going to order a MW and was wondering what you thought about this config.
10x8 (2 birch inner 2 maple 2 artisan outer)
12x8.5 (2 birch inner 2 maple 2 artisan outer)
14x11.5 (2 birch inner 2 mahogany 2 artisan outer)
22x18 (4 birch inner 4 mahogany 2 artisan outer)
Thanks for your knowledge!
Drumkat

The toms will likely have a cutting attack whereas the bass drum in my opinion is too thick. I could be wrong on this but I think with 10 plys it will be 12.5mm thick? If thats the case, you will have little for warmth and bass resonance, but it would be very loud out front with a cutting attack.

Is there a reason why you are trying to create thick shelled drums? Whats your Artisian wood choice? What sound are you wanting?

[Prof.Sound]

Hey Prof, I just wanted to let you know you tuning bible and the amount of thought you put into your posts in this forum is greatly appreciated. Your advice really has helped me, and im sure many other drummers on this forum.

Thanks again, ED


Thank you for noticing - I do appreciate it!

[Tabla_Man]

The toms will likely have a cutting attack whereas the bass drum in my opinion is too thick. I could be wrong on this but I think with 10 plys it will be 12.5mm thick? If thats the case, you will have little for warmth and bass resonance, but it would be very loud out front with a cutting attack.

Is there a reason why you are trying to create thick shelled drums? Whats your Artisian wood choice? What sound are you wanting?

But you have to remember, it's not just thickness it's wood selection as well. A 10 ply Maple BD would be too thick, I agree. Pearl used to do this in the old Custom Z series drums. But the inner plies of Mohogany give it the warmth and low end.

[Prof.Sound]

But you have to remember, it's not just thickness it's wood selection as well. A 10 ply Maple BD would be too thick, I agree. Pearl used to do this in the old Custom Z series drums. But the inner plies of Mohogany give it the warmth and low end.

So is that to be construed as a "yes" vote by you for his drum size and construction?

[Drumkat]

Come to think of it, I agree with you about the bass drum being too thick. I forgot I owned an original Yamaha Maple Custom series drum set and it had a 10ply bass drum which sounded too bright. Is it true when ordering a MW shell with mixed woods you must configure your plys in even numbers (for example 2birch +2 maple or 4 mah.+ 2 birch)? I play r&B and fusion type music. I now own a Noble Cooley (maple) and a Tama Starclassic (birch) and my band and sound techs love the birch kit. I love the tone I get from the NC but I would agree that the Tama cuts and projects much better. I'm not crazy about the Tama's toms (the 10" chokes out) but the bass drum is quite impressive. This is exactly why I've been looking into the MW series. Have you ever heard a MW bass drum with birch and mahogany? Thanks for your time.

[PearlMWPlayer]

Come to think of it, I agree with you about the bass drum being too thick. I forgot I owned an original Yamaha Maple Custom series drum set and it had a 10ply bass drum which sounded too bright. Is it true when ordering a MW shell with mixed woods you must configure your plys in even numbers (for example 2birch +2 maple or 4 mah.+ 2 birch)? I play r&B and fusion type music. I now own a Noble Cooley (maple) and a Tama Starclassic (birch) and my band and sound techs love the birch kit. I love the tone I get from the NC but I would agree that the Tama cuts and projects much better. I'm not crazy about the Tama's toms (the 10" chokes out) but the bass drum is quite impressive. This is exactly why I've been looking into the MW series. Have you ever heard a MW bass drum with birch and mahogany? Thanks for your time.
My kick, snare and suspended floor tom have 2 inner of African Mahogony, 5 ply's of Maple and an outer of Tamo.

[Custom Z]

Hey, Prof Sound,

Good to see you here. We 'met' on the drumweb messageboard in 1998 or 1999. Your drumtuningbible has been a great help to me.

Cheers!

[Prof.Sound]

Nice to see your here...I've sort of quit migrating to other forums and just tune in here now days.